This article has been edited due to length to pertain to Indian Ringnecks only. 

John LaTorre Designs

A NEST BOX

    As you know, there are many types of nest boxes, like the 'Z', the 'L' (or boot), the 'T', the PVC pipe box, the grandfather clock (or cavity box), and the plain square box.  In 1978 I began experimenting with designs for my own nest boxes because of some problems with breeding pairs.  I studied the commonly used boxes and found that they all have adequate space for the birds to sit in and climb through, but I found the actual nesting area to be very limited.  I believe the hen needs as much room as possible, so that when you open the inspection door she will not panic and scramble the eggs, or cause injury to her chicks.
    My solution to this was to design a very long nest box.  I started with a rectangular box, placing the entrance hole on the uppermost corner, and the inspection door at the opposite end.  This box would be mounted horizontally at the highest part of the flight cage.  A perch was installed near the entrance hole for easy access.
    This nest box was constructed of plywood, and when completed it worked better than any box I had used before.

To view two other style nest boxes, please click here.
    But there were still some problems to resolve.  One was the problem of birds chewing through the nest box, which meant escape since I keep my birds outdoors; another problem was presented by shy or reluctant birds that panicked when the nest was inspected.
    I replaced the wood with sheet metal.  Then I used shelves and baffle plates to create chambers.  This appeared to solve most of the problems.  If you try this style of nest box you will find that after your hens get used to you opening the rear door they will just move to the far end of the box while you reach inside.  And you'll find that the eggs are almost always laid right in front of the inspection door!
    Using sheet metal instead of plywood will give you a nest box that is virtually indestructible and which will last a very long time.  It is also very easy to keep clean.  If you are concerned about the effects of heat or cold on the metal, you can glue 3/4-inch thick Styrofoam slabs cut to fit the outside and insulate the box.  AVOID placing Styrofoam on the inside, as the birds won't thrive on a diet of Styrofoam!  Seriously, I would suggest fitting in a floor of plywood for the comfort of the hen and her chicks.
    To line the box I employ a combination of shredded Cyprus and eucalyptus mulch.  This is a natural material that the birds find very acceptable as it's comparable to what they would use in the wild.  The mulch holds much-needed humidity, and it also provides warmth in cooler months if the birds are kept outdoors.  This material also provides the birds with something to chew on as they work the nest.
    I mount my boxes on the upper rear corner of the flight cage and I bolt them on with brackets.  Those who do not wish to leave the nest box in place all year can install a sliding track on which to mount the boxes.
    This nest box design can be made to your own specifications and measurements by any sheet metal worker, and at a very reasonable price.  I hope that, if you try it, you will find it as satisfactory as I do.  Here are some of the sizes that I use.

Indian Ringnecked and similar
10" x 10" x 20" or 12" x 12" x 24"

    The most common sized nest box for Indian Ringnecks is a grandfather clock style, 12"x12"x20".  In this style box the actual nesting area is restricted to 12"x12"x12".  In my rectangular box the nesting area is expanded to 12"x24".

*This article was originally published in the QPR Asiatic Parrot How-To Book in 1997.  Re-written with permission of author.